What you should know about men’s shoe constructions?
Ferruccio Milanesi proudly using traditional “Goodyear Welted” construction synonymous with quality handmade shoes. This unique technique, invented by Charles Goodyear Jr, has been mastered for over 100 years.
Welted construction gets its strength, durability and repair qualities by stitching the upper leather, insole leather and welt. This construction allows to cut through, enabling complete removal of the sole without causing damaging the upper.
The Goodyear Welted construction is time-consuming and relatively expensive and requires highly skilled craftsmanship. This type of shoe is the best globally, created 100 years ago and still considering luxurious shoes. The blake shoe construction is considering medium quality, and Glue-based shoes are low-quality shoes.
Your shoe’s construction tells all about the quality and crafts, and artisanal work of the shoe.
I advise my customers more than 30 tears to pay attention to shoe construction and the importance of the shoes in their wardrobe. Also, I strongly recommend that everyone never buy the suit without having proper shoes and pay attention to the level of the suits and shoes. It’s something you should overlook, and you’ve given a whole lot of thought, depending on the overall outfit.
If you are looking for a pair of shoes for your wedding or one-time special event, you should not focus on the construction of the shoes. Or you are an everyday suit wearer professional, you should concentrate on the structure, quality and artisanal work of the shoes, especially when you have a bespoke wardrobe. The Goodyear welted shoes seem a little pricy initially, but overall, you will save lots of money in the long term because it is an excellent investment for your wardrobe.
To better understand the methodology of the Goodyear(handmade) and Blake stitching, you must understand the parts of a shoe involved in building Men’s shoes:
Upper: The upper leather piece covering your foot, including the vamp, the quarters mainly depending on the style, the eyelets for lacing in lace-up styles.
Insole: The thin leather bottom layer inside the shoe on which your foot sits. Leather insoles are very soft comfortable and will conform to the shape of your feet.
Outsole: The bottom part of the outside of the shoe comes into contact with the ground.
Welt: A strip of leather running along the perimeter of the outsole and plays the most crucial role of connecting the upper to welt and welt-upper to outsole and insole. Also, leather welt plays an important water-resistance role.
What is Goodyear Welting Construction?
It is the most luxurious and craftsmanship of the construction of the shoe ever build it. The crafts Using a double hand stitching method of the welt wrapped around the upper of the shoe serves to hold the Upper welt, insole and outsole together.
In Goodyear welted shoes, we have two separate stitches made on the outside of the shoe.
1) Stitching the upper, insole and welt together using special hand stitching techniques invented by Charles Goodyear.
2) Attaching the outsole to the top layer by the same hand-stitching technique.
Goodyear welting is known for solid structure for last. Goodyear welted shoes are usually more expensive than Blake construction shoes.
Welt plays the most crucial role of the Goodyear welted shoes, helps keep the shoes in good shape and maintains the shoe’s structure and shape. One of the essential advantages of the Goodyear welted shoes is that you can replace any part of the shoes using the same holes for the new threading.
The Blake construction is one of the most commonly misunderstood – shoe construction methods you’ll see today.
What is Blake Stitch Shoe Construction?
Blake stitching is one of the most common types of shoe construction used today. It is the second level of shoe construction, quality and cost-wise.
Blake stitching is also well known as the “single stitch” method. In this technique, the shoe’s upper folds underneath of the insole and stitches the insole, upper, and outsole together on the inside of the shoe.
The shoemakers use a McKay machine, which lock-stitches the thread to ensure it won’t come apart. At the same time, the lockstitch is reducing the shoe’s flexibility, which is a significant disadvantage of this type of shoe construction.
- Blake construction shoes are Less expensive than Goodyear welted shoes.
- Blake construction shoes cannot replace the outsole, maybe one time, but there is a risk of cutting the edge of the upper leather by machine needle holes.
- Shoe repairers need a particular machine to replace the sole in blake construction shoes. Many shoe repairers do not have that machine because of the cost, which is a big issue. Interior stitching is sometimes uncomfortable if the lining is too thin.
Ferruccio Milanesi’s shoemaker’s expertise is creating handmade shoes with love, passion and mastery using traditional Goodyear welted techniques. They also add their artistic talent to make shoes serve wearers on any occasion. Ferruccio Milanesi shoemakers bring together the old conventional crafts and contemporary style to create unique men’s shoes. We believe in the power of exclusivity and one-of-a-kind products.
Ferruccio Milanesi means uniqueness, Value, confidence and self-esteem.