Author: SARTOR Bell

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How to keep your suits and jackets in good shape during the lockdown period?

 

Unfortunately, the Pandemic forced most of the professionals to work from home for over 15 months. During this period, suits were not used and sit in the wardrobe. During the lockdown, I will explain what is happening to your clothing, especially for your suit jacket. We need to know suit jacket construction and structure and understand what happened to your suit jacket when you were not wearing them.

We have three types of suit constructions:

 

1) Fused based jacket construction

It is the cheapest and simplest suit construction for all low-end suits makers, including online custom-made suits suppliers. They are using paper fused to the backside of the jacket fabrics on the entire chest, lapels and collar. This future gives a short time sharp look and stable look, and these type suits are not suitable for professionals, it is good for occasionally used only.
If you own one of these glue-based suits jacket in your wardrobe, there is a big chance it is compromised by now because glue loses its ability during this period. When you start to wear it again, you will observe the suit lost its stable form and shape. Also, visible wrinkles on the chest part of the jacket will appear, which will have poor visual flow.

 

2) Semi canvased suit construction

This type of construction has the chest part of the jacket raping with the Canvas up to half of the front side of the jacket and is a second layer and will stay between lining and jacket fabrics. This type of construction is medium quality and has a little higher price than a fused suit.
It is not favourable suit construction for the professionals who wear suits every day. Most designers suits made in this category

 

3) Fully canvased suit jacket construction

It is the proper construction and made full-length canvasing from the collar to the bottom.
Luxury designers using this type of construction.

 

4) Fully canvased, but all components crafted by Hand

And formed to the anatomic body shape, canvases parts are hand-basted with tens of thousands of hand stitches. It is the best-suited option for professionals.
Sartorial-Designers and men’s styling house using this type of construction, such as Kiton, Ferruccio Milanesi, Cesare Attolini…

Most of the professionals have designers ready-to-wear suits in their wardrobes. Over 95% of these suits are machine-made. That makes it challenging to maintain these suits during the lockdown if we do not do the following actions:

– A machine-made suit has a lockstitch, and You should wear it for at least 1-2 hours a week to maintain your body shape. Otherwise, if you wear it after several months or a year, it will stay in the contracted position of the fabric’s structure. If you wear it after several months, you will feel very tight. Also, if you gain little weight, it will force the jacket and deform its shape because of the lockstitch of the machine-made suit, and you will not like the jacket because it distorts from the original condition. The lockstitch will not allow after expansion to be a retraction.

– The handmade suit has the flexibility of contraction and expansion, which other suit construction can not offer this option. For that reason, Handmade suits are for last long and payback with milage, look, comfort and flexibility.

– Air circulation is crucial. It would help if you allowed everyday few hours to be air circulation of your wardrobe

– A right hanger is necessary, preferable wooden hanger in a proper size.

– Do not keep your suits or jackets in plastic suit-cover.

Ferruccio Milanesi offers 30 minutes of free men’s style, wardrobe and image improvement consultation, and wardrobe evaluation.  Book your FREE CONSULTATION now online or call us and talk with one of our men’s body shape experts and master tailors.

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Why is online Shopping a worse option for suits, shirts and shoes?

Professionals should avoid online Shopping for their wardrobe, especially when buying suits, shirts and dress shoes. These products are dressy and form their style and consider the first investment professionals do for their wardrobe. They should fit perfectly, have quality fabrics, the best craftsmanship, and correct pattern and color can represent the wearer’s personality. 

CONS OF ONLINE SHOPPING

 

  •  The men’s body shape and functionality are too complicated, which need precise shape, a form of the patterns, structure, construction, and craftsmanship of the products involved in the outcome. We need to touch, feel, try and check the products before purchasing to prevent losing money and time.
  • We should consider a clear plan behind every penny spent on our wardrobe. The wardrobe is the first investment place for Gentlemen.
  • Ready-to-wear suits and shirts are made after a ready pattern made by designers based on the average size, shape and type of the men in one zone or country, which means the same designer can have many different patterns for every other part of the world. Like the same size suit which made for Spain will not work for the US. In the online market, these products move very fast from one region to another, and when you buy the same size of the suit, even from the same designer will not fit you.
  • When you purchase your suit offline, you can choose the supplier that offers style and image consulting services to get exactly what you need, making it impossible to make online purchases.
  • There is a big chance of losing money and time if your products do not fit you. Shipping fees and time are always an issue, and tax fees are another loss if international shipping is a case.
  • You can see and feel the quality is one of the first significant bonuses to shopping in real life and not on the internet. 
  • Authenticity, as per the 2019 report, counterfeit market worldwide become multi-billion dollar market. One in five items sold online are fake, and two in five items are defective and have quality issues.
  • Never compromise on your wardrobe quality, fit, and style.
  • Online shopping scams are a common occurrence. The most significant downside of online buying is fraud. Many individuals are drawn to excellent deals that appear to be too good to be true. Fake online shopping portals show out some fantastic things on their websites in order to entice customers to purchase them. Typically, websites that sell counterfeit goods rather than the real thing do not take cash on delivery and instead require customers to make an online payment.
  • Information on the product is missing. Consumers, like retailers and brand producers, despise dealing with returns. They won’t buy something online if they can’t visually picture it or imagine how it will look once it’s unpacked.
  • Reality vs. Model. Have you ever ordered suits, shirts and shoes online, tried it on, and realized it didn’t fit you as well as it did the model? We’ve all been in that situation. Sizing tables may provide correct measurements, but they do not account for height, body type, or weight. When the model wearing the goods is a tall, slim size 2, it’s difficult for the typical individual to imagine what the product will look like on their physique.

 

Ferruccio Milanesi men’s body shape experts and stylists offer a free consultation for customers one-on-one, educate them to build their wardrobe professionally, and teach them how to build the wardrobe with cost-effectiveness and use it with maximum efficiency.

Call and book your free consultation or evaluate your existing wardrobe.

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What you should know about men’s shoe constructions?

 

What you should know about men’s shoe constructions?

Ferruccio Milanesi proudly using traditional “Goodyear Welted” construction synonymous with quality handmade shoes. This unique technique, invented by Charles Goodyear Jr, has been mastered for over 100 years.

Welted construction gets its strength, durability and repair qualities by stitching the upper leather, insole leather and welt. This construction allows to cut through, enabling complete removal of the sole without causing damaging the upper.

The Goodyear Welted construction is time-consuming and relatively expensive and requires highly skilled craftsmanship. This type of shoe is the best globally, created 100 years ago and still considering luxurious shoes. The blake shoe construction is considering medium quality, and Glue-based shoes are low-quality shoes. 

Your shoe’s construction tells all about the quality and crafts, and artisanal work of the shoe. 

I advise my customers more than 30 tears to pay attention to shoe construction and the importance of the shoes in their wardrobe. Also, I strongly recommend that everyone never buy the suit without having proper shoes and pay attention to the level of the suits and shoes. It’s something you should overlook, and you’ve given a whole lot of thought, depending on the overall outfit.

If you are looking for a pair of shoes for your wedding or one-time special event, you should not focus on the construction of the shoes. Or you are an everyday suit wearer professional, you should concentrate on the structure, quality and artisanal work of the shoes, especially when you have a bespoke wardrobe. The Goodyear welted shoes seem a little pricy initially, but overall, you will save lots of money in the long term because it is an excellent investment for your wardrobe.  

To better understand the methodology of the Goodyear(handmade) and Blake stitching, you must understand the parts of a shoe involved in building Men’s shoes:

Upper: The upper leather piece covering your foot, including the vamp, the quarters mainly depending on the style, the eyelets for lacing in lace-up styles.

Insole: The thin leather bottom layer inside the shoe on which your foot sits. Leather insoles are very soft comfortable and will conform to the shape of your feet.

Outsole: The bottom part of the outside of the shoe comes into contact with the ground.

Welt: A strip of leather running along the perimeter of the outsole and plays the most crucial role of connecting the upper to welt and welt-upper to outsole and insole. Also, leather welt plays an important water-resistance role.

Ferruccio Milanesi Luxury menswear and accessories, one-of-a-kind men's shirts, suits and ties, an exclusive menswear store in Vancouver

What is Goodyear Welting Construction?

It is the most luxurious and craftsmanship of the construction of the shoe ever build it. The crafts Using a double hand stitching method of the welt wrapped around the upper of the shoe serves to hold the Upper welt, insole and outsole together.

 In Goodyear welted shoes, we have two separate stitches made on the outside of the shoe. 

1) Stitching the upper, insole and welt together using special hand stitching techniques invented by Charles Goodyear.

2) Attaching the outsole to the top layer by the same hand-stitching technique.

 Goodyear welting is known for solid structure for last. Goodyear welted shoes are usually more expensive than Blake construction shoes.

Welt plays the most crucial role of the Goodyear welted shoes, helps keep the shoes in good shape and maintains the shoe’s structure and shape. One of the essential advantages of the Goodyear welted shoes is that you can replace any part of the shoes using the same holes for the new threading.

The Blake construction is one of the most commonly misunderstood – shoe construction methods you’ll see today.

What is Blake Stitch Shoe Construction?

Blake stitching is one of the most common types of shoe construction used today. It is the second level of shoe construction, quality and cost-wise. 

Blake stitching is also well known as the “single stitch” method. In this technique, the shoe’s upper folds underneath of the insole and stitches the insole, upper, and outsole together on the inside of the shoe.

The shoemakers use a McKay machine, which lock-stitches the thread to ensure it won’t come apart. At the same time, the lockstitch is reducing the shoe’s flexibility, which is a significant disadvantage of this type of shoe construction.

  • Blake construction shoes are Less expensive than Goodyear welted shoes.
  • Blake construction shoes cannot replace the outsole, maybe one time, but there is a risk of cutting the edge of the upper leather by machine needle holes.
  • Shoe repairers need a particular machine to replace the sole in blake construction shoes. Many shoe repairers do not have that machine because of the cost, which is a big issue. Interior stitching is sometimes uncomfortable if the lining is too thin.

 

Ferruccio Milanesi’s shoemaker’s expertise is creating handmade shoes with love, passion and mastery using traditional Goodyear welted techniques. They also add their artistic talent to make shoes serve wearers on any occasion. Ferruccio Milanesi shoemakers bring together the old conventional crafts and contemporary style to create unique men’s shoes. We believe in the power of exclusivity and one-of-a-kind products.
Ferruccio Milanesi means uniqueness, Value, confidence and self-esteem.

 

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FASHION DESIGNER VS SARTORIAL DESIGNER SUITING

 

* FASHION DESIGNER SUITING.
The majority of the Fashion Designer products are made in mass production by machine. We pay for the name, not the quality because machine-made suit construction is the cheapest and fastest construction that is not suitable for the professional’s wardrobe.
The machine-stitch is lock-stitch and locking all layers of the jacket and preventing free movement.
Our body is expanding by breathing and movements. Because of these body movements and expansion, jacket construction must be flexible for our body movements, and machine-made suit construction can not offer that flexibility.

 

* SARTORIAL DESIGNER SUITING.